Assemble the PCB(s)

Main/Base PCB

It is highly recommended to start with the flat components and do the tall components at last.

The order presendet here is just the order I assembled the PCB. It is not required to follow this guide strictly and you can skip and reorder all the steps as much as you like. 😉

1. get the main PCB

2. R1: 10k Ohm resistor

10k Ohm resistor

3. USB1: Micro USB

This is most likely the trickiest part. My way is, to add some solder to the left mounting point and move the port into position while heating up this point. I then secure the other side with more solder and connect the pins at last. When soldering the data pins I add some solder to them and then move the solder iron from the port away until there are no short circuits. (Except the one between the two connections next to VIN, those are required by some cheap power supplies to detect that a device is plugged in.)

4. S1, S2: Push Buttons

I recommend folding the legs before soldering them. This makes soldering way easier.

5. DC1: Barrel Plug

6. M0-M3: Pin Headers

M0 is for programming the ESP, M1 is for stability when connecting adapter PCBs and therefore optional.

I accidently soldered M1 oriented to the top. Do not do this! M1 belongs to the other (bottom) side of the PCB.

top pin header, M1 should go to the bottom. My fault!

accidently soldered M3 oriented to the bottom. Do not do this! M3 belongs to the other (top) side of the PCB.

bottom pin header

7. U2-U3: Power Converter

7.1 U2: Boost Converter

Step one is, to connect the 3V3 jumper on the backside and verify that the converter outputs 3V3,´. If it is not, you may need t adjust the potentiometer on the front side using a screwdriver. I also got my converter with some pin headers attached which made the soldering very easy. But this step is not required and you can also lay the converter onto the PCB and add a lot of solder to it. This step may require some creativity.

7.2 U3: LD1117V33

WIP, this section is not tested and without images. Use your brain and tinker around. Feel free to contribute to this page.

  • LD1117V33

  • 10nF capacitor to C1

  • 100uf capacitor to C2

8. U1: ESP8266-01

I am using 2x (1x4) pin headers. To solder them more easaly I plugged in an dead ESP to hold them together. But be carefull and fast! To much heat may damage something.

You did it 🥳


1. R1-Q3: Add current limitig Resistors

Please check that they will not interfere with the MOSFETs added in Step 2. Otherwise you may need some smaller resistors.

2. Q1-Q3: MOSFETs

Bend the legs of the MOSFETs so they fit into the lines marked on the PCB

3. R5-R7: Pull Down Resistors (optional)

Do not add the R5 Resistor. If connected the ESP won't boot when this PCB is connected. Check Issue 2.

I don't know 100% if they are really necessary but they may help discharge the MOSFET gate and prevent them from breaking. I am currently monitoring this. For now you should be save to skip this step.